Can Biotechnology is solution to environmental woes of skincare and beauty industry?

The beauty industry has been under constant criticism for contributing to pollution and environmental degradation. Not only are they the largest consumer and polluter of single-use plastic, but most of the plastics also end up in a landfill. At the same time, product formulations contaminate soil and water. National Geographic found that today US-made products, use 120 times more plastic packaging than it did in1960.  Hence there is a need to switch to renewable sources for raw materials and use 'greener' ingredients and opt for sustainable packing. This is why biotechnology or biotech is emerging as the preferred choice among beauty enthusiasts and beauty brand to promote a sustainable culture. It promises to deliver cleaner products, more efficacious beauty ingredients instead of petrochemicals or animal sources.

Biotech skincare uses active ingredients that have been synthesized by genetically engineering microbes (yeast, bacteria, etc.) in a strictly regulated laboratory setting. Most of these ingredients are synthesized by microbes, like bacteria or yeast, or algae that have undergone DNA editing so that their metabolic process will result in a commercially viable molecule. These microbes are acquired and cultured in an artificial environment where they don't need to replenish themselves from any outside source.

Hence brands and manufacturers are formulating with biotech ingredients, including fragrance makers Firmenich and Robertet. For instance, Solazyme's microalgae oils are being used by Natura Cosmetics in Brazil. Last year, Swiss multinational manufacturer of flavors, fragrances and active cosmetic ingredients Givaudan had announced Amborfix, which is a version of Ambrox or Ambroxide, made by fermenting cane sugar. Givaudan explains that this new fragrance molecule is 100% naturally derived and biodegradable.

Recently, beauty brand leader, L'Oréal signed a deal with Micreos, a Netherlands-based bacterial technology company for access to a proprietary enzyme (Staphefekt) that targets and kills staphylococcus aureus—the endolysin is already an ingredient in Micreos' own skincare brand Gladskin. It is expected that after acquiring License for Staphefekt, L'Oreal may also start launching products that eliminate or restrict the staphylococcus aureus.

Last year, Lubrizol Life Science – Beauty (LLS Beauty) had launched a sustainable skincare solution, which was based on Uniclay biotech ingredient, developed by Lipotec Active Ingredients. This ingredient was sourced from a micro-organism isolated from clay found near a wetland in Catalonia, Spain. This raw material mimics the multiple beneficial effects of clay on the skin, creating a cleaner, smoother and healthier skin in different ethnicities. According to a study, in just 14 days of applying a cream containing 3% ingredient, an increase by 9.5% and 13.5% in smoothness and softness respectively was noticed, along with a 50.7% reduction in porphyrins, for enhanced skin purification.

Meanwhile, Contipro, a Czech company, dedicated to biotech, has a portfolio of some 15 anti-aging ingredients, such as Hysilk a Hyaluronic acid ingredient made by fermentation that hydrates the skin and removes oiliness. Chinese company Bloomage Biotech is also using fermentation technology to produce Hyaluronic acid. Skincare brand Biossance, leverages biotech to design a more sustainable squalane (C30H62), a supercharged emollient that locks moisture in the skin. While it was earlier obtained from shark livers, now squalane is sourced from olives. Today, Biossance is one of the skincare brands that produce bio-fermented, 100% plant-based squalane.

AOBiome, is experimenting with ways to incorporate beneficial bacteria into facial sprays. One Ocean Beauty relies on biotech to grow marine microbes that secrete glycoproteins at a higher concentration. When used in skincare, they help retain moisture as well as stimulate collagen and elastin. Geltor uses biotech for making HumaColl21, which is a human-identical collagen protein, for skincare products.

Further, companies now are planning to reduce the amount of virgin plastic they use, opting for 50% virgin and 50% recycled with pledges to decrease the amount of virgin plastic over time. For e.g., Lush have created a whole range of "naked" products from shampoo to body scrubs and deodorant bars and even makeup products that are entirely free from the packaging. Netherlands-based group LCA Centre researched that if refillable containers were used for cosmetics, almost 70% of the beauty industry's carbon emissions can be eliminated.

Biotechnology in the beauty industry would not only help to minimize pollution but is also a low cost technology. Moreover, it can synthesize an ingredient at a higher rate and higher consistency when compared to the traditional extraction process, thereby reducing the carbon footprint of beauty industry. While it is offering practical solutions conscious consumerism can help propel further usage of biotech in the beauty sector.